How to Wax Your Chain (and why you should)

Waxing your chain is one of the best ways to get a smoother, quieter, and longer-lasting drivetrain. It keeps grit and grime off your components, reduces friction, and means less maintenance over time. Here’s how to do it right.

What You’ll Need

• A clean, dry chain (completely degreased)

• Chain-specific wax (Silca Secret Chain Wax is a great option)

• A slow cooker or Silca Chain Waxing System

• A quick-link tool

• A spoke or wire coat hanger to hold the chain

• Gloves and a rag

Step 1 — Start Clean

Wax bonds properly only when it has clean, bare metal to grab onto, so thorough cleaning is the most important step.

If your chain is brand new, you’ll only need a couple of solvent rounds to remove the factory grease - something like mineral turpentine followed by methylated spirits works well. Make sure no oily film remains before waxing.

If your chain is used, it will take longer to clean thoroughly (sometimes multiple solvent baths), because old oil and contamination sit deep inside the rollers.

Clean the drivetrain too — chainrings, cassette, and jockey wheels — so you don’t contaminate your freshly-waxed chain as soon as you reinstall it.

Tip: Isopropyl alcohol is great for the final rinse to ensure nothing remains on the metal.

Shortcut: You can eliminate most of this step by adding Silca Strip Chip to your wax pot — it pulls the grease out of the chain during the first melt.

Step 2 — Melt the Wax

Add your wax pellets to a slow cooker and set it to low heat. Once it’s melted and fully liquid (around 100–120°C), give it a gentle stir. Don’t overheat, you’re aiming for a smooth, molten consistency.

Tip: Add Silca Endurance Chip to your wax to extend the life of your bike chain, and Silca Speed Chip to increase drivechain efficiency.

Step 3 — Submerge the Chain

Feed the chain onto a bent spoke, piece of wire or coat hanger then lower the dry chain into the wax and move it around to make sure every link gets coated. Let it sit for about 10–15 minutes so the wax can fully penetrate. Allow the wax to cool during this process so when the chain is removed it remains in the links.

Step 4 — Hang and Set

Lift the chain out (aprox 75°C) , let any excess wax drip back into the pot, and hang it up to dry. Once it’s cooled and hardened, gently flex the links to break them free — it’ll feel a bit stiff at first, but that’s normal.

Step 5 — Refit and Ride

Reinstall the chain using a new quick link, and you’re good to go. You’ll notice the drivetrain feels buttery-smooth, stays clean for longer, and sheds dirt instead of collecting it.

Ongoing Maintenance

You’ll usually get 200–300 km per wax in normal road conditions (lean toward the early side if you want maximum chain and cassette lifespan).

After wet rides, dry the chain and re-wax as soon as possible — water and high-carbon steel don’t mix, and oxidation sets in quickly.

When re-dipping, you can use boiling water to melt off the old wax. You don’t need to re-clean the chain from scratch.

To make maintenance even easier, many riders run two training chains in rotation. Swap weekly, re-wax both at once, and enjoy huge drivetrain longevity.

Why We Rate It

Once you ride a properly-waxed chain, the difference is huge — buttery smooth, incredibly quiet, and far cleaner than drip lubes. You’ll replace fewer chains, cassettes, and chainrings over time, and your drivetrain stays efficient day in, day out.

If you want help getting started, swing by Saint Cloud and we’ll sort your first waxed chain for you — or book in for a service and we’ll handle the whole process.